This table is the perfect piece for jewelry storage or a storage in the bathroom. This narrow little cabinet will fit into a variety of spaces and can be finished to match any style!
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1” brad nails
1-1/4” brad nails
Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
1 - 1x2 at 4’
1 – 1x2 at 6’
1 - 1x8 at 4’
1 - 1x10 at 8’
1 – 2x2 at 8’
1 – sheet of ¼” plywood
1 piece of ¾” x ¾” trim (generally sold in 8’ lengths)
4 – 2x2 at 6” – Base Legs
2 – 2x2 at 5” – Base Frame
2 – 2x2 at 12” – Base Frame
2 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-1/2” wide) at 33-1/4” – Cabinet Sides
3 – 1x8 (ripped to 6-3/4” wide) at 13” – Bottom & Shelves
2 – 1x2 at 13” – Upper Stretchers
1 – ¼” plywood at 14” x 33-1/4” – Cabinet Back
1 – 1x10 (ripped to 8-3/4” wide) at 16-1/2” – Top
Trim cut to fit under the sides and front of the top
2 – 1x2 at 9-3/4” – Door Rails
2 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Door Stiles
Glass or Plexiglas cut to fit opening in door
Cut the pieces for the legs and the base frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the pocket hole jig for ¾” and drill pocket holes in the lower edge. Secure the sides to the base frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The sides will be positioned ¼” away from all sides of the base framing.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the shelves. Secure the bottom to the base between the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bottom is positioned so it is flush with the back edge of the sides which will make it ¾” back from the front edges of the sides.
Drill pocket holes in the side edges of each shelf piece. Secure the shelves to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the top edge of the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Position the back piece on the back side of the cabinet and secure in place with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front of the top will overhang the cabinet by 1”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the trim. There are no dimensions given because it will depend on the type of trim used. Secure the trim under the top using glue and 1” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails (the shorter pieces). The pocket holes should be positioned close together and toward one long edge in order to make room for the rabbet cut with the router. Assemble the door frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Using a router and a rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet ¼” deep by ¼” wide around the inside of the door frame.
Cut the glass or Plexiglas to fit inside the rabbet and secure in place using the mirror clips.
Install the hinges on the door, then install the door in the cabinet. Drill a hole in the opposite side of the door frame for the cabinet pull.
Finish as desired. Also, we carry a bit of glass cabinet hardware if you need bumpers or want to use glass clips.